Best of the Best Deep Conditioners for Natural Hair

by maneobjective

Continuing my end of the year round up, we come to the deep conditioners that have held it DOWN for me in 2014. This is probably the hardest list of the lineup to compile -- because I've tried SO many deep conditioners this year, and liked a good number of them. In the deep conditioner department, I doled out a lot of 4's and 5's -- and even recommended many of them to some of you all. But there's a tremendous difference between like, love, and holy-grail-I-never-want-to-run-out-of-ever-in-life aka if-you-ever-stop-making-this-I-will-flood-your-customer-service-inbox-into-oblivion.

Needless to say, I had some tough calls to make. I thought long and hard about what products I have kept in constant rotation. Without further delay, here are my picks:

Best of the Best

Eva NYC Therapy Session Hair Mask

$15, CLICK HERE
Come on, you knew this would be at the top of the list! I seriously don't know where my hair would be without Eva NYC Therapy Session Hair Mask. It was love at first jar. I can't say enough about how much I love this deep conditioner. It hits all the marks -- slip, shine, softness, strength, affordability, and an epic buttery smoothness that is virtually unrivaled. I don't know how they do it, but I hope they never stop. Eva NYC Therapy Session Hair Mask Review

TGIN Triple Moisture Replenishing Conditioner

$34.49, CLICK HERE
I've been rocking with TGIN ever since I learned they existed (in my transitioning days) and with good reason. I love their stuff -- from start to finish. I already marked the Moisture Rich Sulfate Free Shampoo as a holy grail, and I would be in complete denial if I did not include the Triple Moisture Replenishing Conditioner. I know, I know. It's not technically a deep conditioner. But guess what? It behaves like one. If I had to choose between Triple Moisture Replenishing Conditioner and Honey Miracle Hair Mask in a showdown, I'd ride with Triple Moisture every. Single. Time. It smells amazing, has magnificent slip, conditions like a dream, hydrates, and leaves the hair feeling supple and strong with a wonderful shine. Oh, and the shampoo-conditioner duo is always on sale at www.tginatural.com. What's not to love about getting a winning duo at a discount? TGIN Product Line Review

Hydratherma Naturals Amino Plus Protein Deep Conditioning Treatment

$16.99, CLICK HERE
Another transitioner throwback -- I have a special place in my heart for Hydratherma Naturals Amino Plus Protein Deep Conditioner. It was the first moisture-protein balancing treatment that gave my transitioning tresses life more abundantly, and I have kept a bottle in the stash ever since. It's a protein treatment that soften and moisturizes the hair, and doesn't leave it brittle or hard at all. And, it's one of the few deep conditioners that utilizes amino acids to replenish lost proteins in the hair. Hydratherma Naturals Amino Plus Protein Deep Conditioning Treatment Review

ApHogee Curlifc Texture Treatment 

$10, CLICK HERE
I'll admit, when ApHogee dropped their Curlific line, I gave them the side-ist of side eyes. But the product junkie in me would not allow me to stay away from line, and I purchased all four Curlific products in January of 2014. Of the four, Texture Treatment is the standout, hands down winner. This product is multifaceted and epic. I've used it to pre-poo, and witnessed how with a little heat from the hooded dryer, how the treatment melts tangles. I've used it to deep condition, and gained a whole new appreciation for products that can perform in 10 minutes or less. The Texture Treatment is nothing short of amazing, and I absolutely cannot get enough of it. ApHogee Curlific Texture Treatment Review

Shea Moisture Jamaican Black Castor Oil Strengthen, Grow & Restore Treatment Masque

$14.49 CLICK HERE, 
In the year of Shea-Moisture-Releases-Fifty-Leven-Product-Lines-With-Obscenely-Long-Product-Names, there were several that I tried, and liked well enough. But the stand-out and unlikely hero of them all was from their Jamaican Black Castor Oil line. It's funky-colored and smells like play-doh, but it works like a charm. It smooths, hydrates, adds shine, has nice slip, and gives me a buttery smoothness practically on par with Eva NYC Therapy Session Hair Mask. I didn't want to like anything from the JBCO line, but I fell in love with the Treatment Masque after I was two seconds away from giving up on the brand. Well played, Shea Moisture. Well played. Shea Moisture Jamaican Black Castor Oil Treatment Masque Review

Honorable Mentions

These products didn't make the holy grail list, but I'd be remissed if I didn't mention them. Maybe they'll take center stage in 2015!

Mystic Divine Nourishing Masque

$15.75,  CLICK HERE
For the longest time, I had zero interest in this product. It sat in the back of my deep conditioner drawer for months, and I could kick myself for not digging it out sooner. I honestly can't even craft a good excuse for why it took me so long to give it a try. I'm glad that I finally did, and I am on the verge of declaring my love for Mystic Divine Nourishing Masque. If for no other reason, the buttery smoothness I feel upon rinsing is virtually enough to win me over. I've purchased a second jar, just to see if it's real. Look for a review reaaaaaally soon.

Giovanni Nutrafix Hair Reconstructor

$7.95, CLICK HERE
Another deep conditioner that flew under my radar is Giovanni's Nutrafix Hair Reconstructor. I like it...a lot. It delivers all that buttery goodness without silicones and other non-CG friendly ingredients, but I'm still trying to wrap my mind around how it works. It's supposed to be a reconstructor and fill in damaged cuticles with proteins, but...I don't see any proteins on the list. Maybe this is an answered prayer for protein-sensitive ladies? After I spend more time with Nutrafix, (I'm on my 2nd or 3rd tube), I'll have a review for you guys!

Eden BodyWorks Jojoba Monoi Deep Conditioner (not pictured)

$22.49, CLICK HERE
If you followed my Max Hydration Method experiment, then you know Eden BodyWorks Jojoba Monoi Deep Conditioner was my ride-or-die deep conditioner. I used it for virtually every wash day, and it held me dowwwwwwn. After I was done with the MHM, I liked the Jojoba Monoi Deep Conditioner well enough to keep it in rotation for a while, but I fell off in the repurchase area about a month and a half ago. The truth is, it's a wonderful deep conditioner -- I just struggle to make room for it in an already robust deep conditioner lineup. It's great, and I know that if some sort of freak accident occurred and I couldn't get my hands on my top 5, Eden BodyWorks would undoubtedly be my 6th man.

TGIN Honey Miracle Hair Mask

$35.99, CLICK HERE 
Yes, another TGIN product. I put Honey Miracle Hair Mask in the honorable mentions because as I previously mentioned, I'd pick Triple Moisture Replenishing Conditioner every time. But don't count Honey Miracle out just yet! It's a wonderful and effective moisturizing deep conditioner, full of humectants and rich oils that leave my hair feeling soft, shiny, and detangled. Oh, and it smells ah-MAY-zing. TGIN Line Review

Ouidad Curl Recovery Melt-Down Extreme Repair Mask

$40, CLICK HERE
Another late-comer to the game, I got acquainted with Ouidad's repair mask for dry, damaged hair in late November. I love how it's thick like butter, and soaks right into the hair (in spite of how thick it is). I am really digging everything about the Melt-Down Mask except the price. At $40 for a 6oz jar, it is one of the most expensive products I have put in my hair. Look for a review very, very soon!

I can't believe I actually made it through this list! Up next: leave-ins! Stay tuned! 

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3 Protective Styling Mistakes That Can Hurt Your Length Goals

by Geniece

One of the reasons I decided to follow a protective styling and low maintenance regime was because of the overwhelmingly positive effects I saw on women who used this method. Over the past five years, I have largely found that protective styling is indeed very effective in retaining length and allows for easy styling once hair has reached one’s desired length goals.

However I have also learned that NOT ALL PROTECTIVE STYLES ARE CREATED EQUAL. Both the styles you wear and how your care for your hair in certain styles can influence the extent to which your protective style leads to hair health or hair breakage.

Mini Braids That are Too Small and Tight

These styles are a favorite option among some women because it allows for long term protection, while also allowing for one to display length. I have worn this style and experienced mixed results. Mini braids, for example, were a “one and done” style for me mainly because they were extremely difficult for me to unravel after a few weeks.

Mini Braids

While taking down my mini braids I had to use a bobby pin to undo some of the braids because the hair was so tightly braided. In this case the style had diminishing returns. In the future I might braid hair in significantly larger sections to make the style more effective.

Mini Twists on Hair that Hasn’t Been Stretched

Overall, I’ve had better experiences with mini twists than with mini braids and can generally say that they meet the goals of protective styling. However, for my tightly coiled hair, twisting the hair without blow drying first can lead to tangles galore. In my experience mini twists on my hair without heat stretching first, can lead to breakage caused by the excessive knots I encounter during the take down process. This is in part due to my current length (a bit above waist length after a recent trim) and my tightly coiled hair type.

Mini Twists

Braid Extensions that Tangle and Take Long to Install

One of the protective styling options I get the most questions about via email are braid extensions. Extensions and weaves can be damaging or beneficial depending on how they style is installed. I am not a professional stylist and I don’t personally have much experience with weaves or extensions, so I can’t give directed advice on how they should be installed. However, if you are wearing a long term protective style using your hair, be sure to take the following into consideration:

1) Possibility of tangling

2) Time cost benefits of the style (the length of time it takes to complete the style vs. how much time you save in weekly styling).

Although long term protective styles like mini braids or twists (with natural hair), can make your hair regimen a breeze for a few weeks, it can ultimately lead to a setback.

What are your favorite long term protective styles? Which long term protective styles help you to retain the most length?

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Why I Only Wash My Natural Hair Every 2 Weeks

How many of you reading this wash your hair every 5 days without fail?

If you responded “yes,” I’d venture to guess (though I may be incorrect) that you wash your hair that often because its currently at a length you consider manageable, or your scalp accumulates oil necessitating a wash, or you wear wash and go styles. However, for those of you who don’t have to wash your hair due to an oily scalp or any other issue, what is the maximum amount of time you should go without washing your hair? Everyone’s hair and scalp are different but I offer a few guidelines that I’ve used in my hair regimen.

Washing vs. Cleansing

First things first: When I say “washing,” I am specifically referring to the use of a cleansing agent (preferably a mild one) which aids in the breakdown and removal of oil and dirt from the hair and scalp. For me, this means using my Shea Moisture Raw Shea Butter shampoo or African black soap. My scalp doesn’t produce much sebum; so it really isn’t necessary for me to wash my hair every single week. I add moisture by spritzing water and sealing the length of my hair with oils. You may find that you can also go longer than one week without using a shampoo or other cleansing agent. Still, considering the polluted environment in which most of us live, washing your hair with a gentle cleanser at least twice a month, or every two weeks, will remove build up that accumulates over time. This doesn’t mean, however, that you should not cleanse your hair sooner.

I refer to “cleansing” as the use of only water to clean your hair and scalp. Conditioner can be used to soften the hair, but I prefer to cleanse with only water and then apply a leave-in conditioner after. Why can cleansing be useful in between washes? Well, think of your hair as a fabric. Unless you keep it covered, it is regularly exposed to the elements, absorbs odor, dust and dirt. Cleansing your hair can be as simple as sectioning your hair, rinsing it in the shower and then applying a leave in moisturizer. If you are not going to vigorously rub the scalp (as usually done during washing), you might be able to avoid lengthy detangling sessions and simply remove shed hair with your fingers. Ideally, I think it’s a good idea (though not necessary for everyone) to lightly cleanse your hair  in between washes if you wait more than 10-14 days to wash your hair.

Why Wait to Wash?

Some of you may read this article and wonder: Why would anyone wait longer than a few days to wash? Well, if you have highly textured hair, the longer your hair grows, the more time consuming it can be to wash and style your hair. Deep conditioning twice a week when you have a TWA is one of the benefits of shorter hair that I miss. I washed my hair at least three days a week when I first went natural. Now, with waist length hair, it simply takes too much time to wash multiple times a week if not necessary. Moreover, I’ve found that washing my hair too frequently can leave my hair feeling brittle and dry. It takes a few days for my hair to absorb the natural oils produced by my scalp and I find that this benefits the health of my newly grown hair without the need to add other oils like jojoba directly to my scalp.

Like any part of your hair routine, you want to balance your lifestyle with a regimen that suits your tastes and needs. Going beyond two weeks without washing or cleansing the hair might have a negative impact on most women, due to scalp or hair dryness. In my opinion that would be considered “too” long. Some of you may disagree. Share your thoughts.

How often do you wash your hair?  What is the longest you can comfortably go without a wash?

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Chapter I: My White Boyfriend Changed My View on My Kinky “Kitchen”

err

Some of the “kitchen”.

by Chinwe 

 From the writer: The original article (posted below) is about a boyfriend who saw the beauty in his girlfriend’s “kitchen”.  A follow up article, chapter II, will touch upon race and hair as it relates to this story.

“The most important thing about our gas-equipped kitchen was that Mama used to do hair there. The hot comb was a fine-toothed iron instrument with a long wooden handle and a pair of iron curlers that opened and closed like scissors. … The word ‘kitchen’ has another meaning, and the kitchen that I’m speaking of is the very kinky bit of hair at the back of your head… When hair had begun to ‘turn’, as they’d say– to return to its natural kinky glory–it was the kitchen that turned first (the kitchen around the back and nappy edges at the temples).”

 

~ Quote from IN THE KITCHEN by Henry Louis Gates

Back in my relaxer days, I thought it was essential to straighten every kink in my hair from the roots to the edges. One section of my hair that never remained straight for long was my “kitchen”. You see, that “kitchen” – that unruly hair at the nape of my neck – would stay kinky and due to conditioned thinking, I viewed that area as unsightly and unkempt. I did not like my “kitchen” one bit, and this was reinforced when the salonist would shave it off without asking. That nappy hair back there just did not belong.

Going natural did NOT change my mindset about my “kitchen”

When I went natural in 2008, I had fallen in love with my hair and its kinks – except for those in my “kitchen.” I know this sounds odd, but that was honestly my mentality back then. My kinky puffs, my twist updos, and my fuzzy twist outs were all beautiful to me, but no matter the style, that “kitchen” never appealed to me. Brushing and the application of gel only worked temporarily. Within an hour, I’d see the little o’s re-develop. Why couldn’t my “kitchen” just behave? Why couldn’t it form into cute little ringlets? So, I started to shave it off just as I did in my relaxer days and just as that stylist had first done years ago. The rest of my hair could be kinky, but that “kitchen” had to be cleaned.

“Take the kinks out of your mind instead of your hair”

~Quote from Marcus Garvey

My boyfriend’s viewpoints on my kitchen

When winter hit and I began wearing braid extensions, I let the naps grow in all their glory. Getting bogged down with work and life, I could not afford to be bothered with keeping up the “kitchen,” so I just let it be. However, just because I left it to grow uncontrollably did not necessarily mean I came to like its existence. I had merely just come to manage it – partially accept it – for the time being.

One evening, while resting my head on my boyfriend’s shoulder, he started to play with my “kitchen” and said, “Cute curls.”  Thrown off-guard by the terms “cute” AND “curls,” I looked up at him and said, “Huh?!” You see, all I had seen back there were unkempt naps that needed to be shaved — unruly kinks that made my updos look messy. So when he said “cute,” I laughed and followed by “curls,” I nearly doubled over. He must be looking through another set of goggles.

How his viewpoints were a catalyst for changing my viewpoints

What he said that day replayed in my mind. What had he been seeing? Why was it different from what I had been seeing?  Why had I decided that my “kitchen” was sowrong?

It took some time, but one morning, the fog was removed from my periphery. I was in front of the mirror bunning up my braids when I recognized the “cute” and “curls” my boyfriend had said days prior. What could possibly be ugly about the natural kinks that grew back there? How could something so much apart of me, of my DNA, not belong back there? “Unsightly” gradually transformed into “beautiful” before my very eyes. Rubbing my hands against the nape of my neck, I also felt the beauty; so much texture and intricacy of little o’s under my fingers.

The unattractive, kinky “kitchen” had become an illusion of the past formed from years of relaxers and conditioned thinking. What was really on the back of my head was my beautiful hair – that’s it!

How do you feel about your “kitchen”? Did your view change when you went natural?

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3 Reasons Heat Damage to Natural Hair CANNOT Be Reversed

by The Natural Haven – January 23, 2015

I get these questions quite often, so I am featuring this one today from blog reader D. She writes

‘So I feel like I have a unique situation. I have heat damage but it’s not the kind you just trim off. The stylist actually weakened and compromised the integrity of my hair. Now that it’s cooler it’s even harder to keep my hair moisturized. I’ve added more protein in my regimen and I deep condition after every wash. Other than a wash n go, every other style stretches my curls and before my next wash day I’m left with straight pieces and waves all over, at least until I can get it into a long term protective style and re-transition back to my original curly coiled kinks. I feel like there’s no hope for my pattern to return. Doc is there anyway to come back from heat,weakened damaged hair? why or why not?’

I hate to break it to you but the only permanent remedy to heat damaged hair is a trim. Here is why

1. Your hair is dead

Once your hair emerges out into the visible area of your scalp, you are dealing with a dead fibre. It is dead because there are no active growing cells in it. The implication here is that this fibre can only ever either stay in the condition it is as it emerges or wear down over time. There are no active cells within that part that has emerged to fix any damage.

2.  High heat makes physical and irreversible changes to your hair at a molecular level

High or prolonged heat can physically and irreversibly change the natural structure of protein . Hair is made up of a protein called keratin. Keratin in hair has a natural twist in it called an alpha helix. This twist is present in all hair straight or curly. If you heat keratin to around 215-235°C ( 419-455F) the alpha helix starts to melt. This is a a physical change and it is irreversible, your hair will retain the shape of the melted keratin at a molecular level. Your hair shows you this molecular damage by not getting back into its natural curl or wave and staying straighter.

3. All damage to your hair is cumulative. 

Remember you have no growing cells in the dead part of the hair so if the cuticle is broken, it will stay broken. If you heat treat and damage the cortex, it stays damaged. Your hair conditioner and gentle treatment can help prolong the life of the damaged hair but ultimately it is damaged and the damage will continue to progress.

Do you have to cut it off?

If you can deal with the multiple textures and your hair is not breaking off in pieces, you can keep heat damaged hair. If the multiple textures are driving you insane, trimming is the only proven way forward.

Ladies, what has your experience been with heat damage? Did you hang on to the damaged hair, or did you cut it?

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