True Life: I Don’t Fully Detangle… and My Hair is Waist Length

Can I tell you a secret? It takes me less time to detangle my hair now than it did a year ago. Why is that surprising? Well, for starters my hair is several inches longer than it was a year ago — something that usually meant longer detangling sessions. Now before you get your hopes up thinking  I’m about to reveal a product that magically made my tangles and knots disappear be prepared for some down to earth advice. It’s not as magical as you think. Which is good news because you can change how you approach detangle your hair too.

When I realized how long my detangling sessions were taking I started to search for conditioners with greater slip, better ways to section my hair and just about anything that I could do to lessen the time it took to get through my hair. I then realized that a major reason for my long detangling time was that I was detangling sections that had already been done. Let me explain.

As many naturals know it is important to use a wide tooth comb when combing through our hair. I would use my wide tooth comb but I would also want to be sure that I removed tangles I missed so I would comb through sections multiple times and then comb through the hair with a smaller toothed comb (not fine toothed) to give it a thorough comb through. What I thought was thorough, however, turned out to be unnecessary and, most importantly, time consuming.  I felt that my hair wasn’t truly detangled unless I felt that I removed all of the tangles and knots but after months of a simpler approach to detangling my coily hair I have found that this is simply not true.

My Detangling Method

To detangle my hair I use two “must have” tools. First, I use a slippery conditioner on lightly dampened hair. At the moment I’m rather fond of Tresemme’s Curl Hydration conditioner.  My other tool is a seamless wide toothed comb. I use the Hercules Sagemann comb that only has 8 teeth, so the spacing is rather wide.  After a section of my dampened hair is coated with conditioner (I usually divide my hair into eight sections) I work the comb through each section. When I’m done, I’m done. I don’t get a smaller toothed comb to check for knots I’ve missed or inspect the hair in the mirror. After doing this for months my hair hasn’t tangled any more than usual and I haven’t suffered any breakage. The best part: I can complete detangling my hair in about 35 minutes. My hair is waist length when stretched so this is pretty awesome. Previously it would take me that time to detangle half of my hair!

Are there times when you need to do a more thorough detangling? Yes. If you are removing a long term protective style or if you are planning to straighten your hair detangling thoroughly is important.. For day to day styling with your natural hair, however, you can save yourself some time. One thing that helps me to keep detangling in perspective that no matter if I remove every knot, shed hair or split end my hair will curl up and form a new tangle before I can say “curly, coily, kinky”.  I’ve surrendered to this fact about my hair and it has helped me to enjoy it rather than stress over it. Hope this helps.

Have you been able to shorten your detangling sessions as even as your hair grows longer?

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3 Hair Conditions that are Mistaken for Dandruff

by Black Girl With Long Hair

Everyone has had to deal with dandruff at one point or another.  And let’s face it, those flakes are just never welcome!  For most of us, a quick washing with Head and Shoulders,  Nizoral, Selsun Blue, or some tea-tree inspired something is enough to clear up most flake flare ups— but sometimes dandruff can be, well . . . not really dandruff.  If you’ve used every dandruff treatment in the book and still can’t seem to beat the flakes, it might be that you are really fighting something other than dandruff.

How do you know if your dandruff is just dandruff, a false alarm, or a real symptom of something else entirely?

Before we talk about the dandruff false alarms— let’s talk about real dandruff.  Sometimes dandruff really is dandruff.  Real dandruff is believed to be caused by excessive growth of a fungus calledmalasezzia.  Malesezzia is naturally found on the scalp in non-dandruff sufferers, but the fungal population is out of control in those who are plagued with dandruff.  Experts are not quite sure why malassezia multiplies on the scalp, but many attribute its growth to having excessive amounts of oil on the scalp from infrequent cleansing, having a compromised immune system, poor diet, or simple hormonal changes in the body. In most cases, a standard shampoo regimen will clear up dandruff in a few weeks.  Common shampoo active ingredients include zinc pyrithione, ketoconazole, selenium sulfide, coal tar, tea tree and other tingly active ingredients.  For stubborn cases, the active ingredient in the shampoo may need to be rotated for best results (for example, using zinc pyrithione shampoo during weeks 1 and 2, and a selenium sulfide-based shampoo in weeks 3 and 4).

The False Alarms:

1. Dry Scalp

One commonly mistaken dandruff lookalike is plain old dry scalp.  Some products have a knack for drying out the scalp— shampoos are a common culprit.  Regularly using a soap or shampoo formula that is too harsh (usually sulfate-based) will lead to scalp dryness over time.  Other dry scalp instigators include weather changes, using water with a high mineral content or pH, and using water that is too hot.  Those who chemically treat their hair with relaxers, texturizers, or hair coloring products and those who overdry their hair when blowdrying may also run into this kind of problem as those treatments/techniques tend to dehydrate the scalp.  If you aren’t hydrating your body from within by drinking water, you’ll also tend to have dry skin— not just on the scalp— but all over.   Proper diet is also key to maintaining the skin— and essential fatty acid and Vitamin C deficiencies are common triggers of dry, itchy scalp  You can add more fish, citrus fruit, nuts and leafy green veggies to your diet to work around this, but know that it can take three months of good nutrition or more before the results improve.

2. Product Buildup

Product buildup and less than thorough rinsing can also lead to dandruffy looking conditions!  Conditioner is the number one culprit here, and in kinky-curly hair (or relaxed hair with considerable new growth) conditioner can become “trapped” near the roots upon rinsing.  If efforts aren’t taken to gently agitate or free conditioner that has settled close to the scalp, you will be in for an itchy, flaky mess once the hair dries.  In my experience, this type of buildup is also oilier and gummier— like a gross, icky blanket on the scalp.  Gels, serums and oils can also create sticky films that combine with sebum and regular debris to produce what looks like flaky, dandruffy scalp conditions.

3. Psoriasis and Seborrheic Dermatitis

Sometimes real dandruff can be a symptom of some other scalp condition— and making a distinction between plain dandruff, psoriasis and seborrheic dermatitis can be tricky.  What really helps distinguish the conditions from one another is the degree and kind of flaking you tend to get.  In psoriasis and seborrhea, dandruff is usually the main symptom among other symptoms like redness and crusting, for example.  Psoriasis tends to produce thicker, drier looking scales of skin than seborrhea does— and it also tends to appear on other parts of the body (knees/elbows).   Seborrhea tends to produce an oilier kind of flake.  Fortunately, treatments specifically targeted for basic fungal dandruff can help clear up outbreaks of psoriasis and seborrheic dermatitis. A quick visit to the dermatologist will help you figure out if your dandruff is just dandruff, a false alarm, or if you’ve got a dandruff as a symptom of something else.

Ladies, have you ever mistaken one of these conditions for dandruff?

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5 Amazing Moisturizing Conditioners for Dry Natural Hair

By Chinwe of Hair and Health

Are you searching for an effective moisturizing conditioner for your parched natural hair?  Here are some products that might be worth trying:

1. Aussie 3 Minute Miracle Deeeeep Conditioner (pictured above)

WHY AUSSIE: It is inexpensive, a little goes a long way, and it leaves the hair feeling soft and smooth.  Some reviewers even say the conditioner “really is a miracle” in a bottle.

WHAT’S IN IT: The first several ingredients consist of water, fatty alcohols (stearyl and cetyl), and a few silicone-based ingredients that smooth down the hair shaft.  It also contains sea kelp, aloe vera juice, and jojoba oil.

2. GVP Conditioning Balm

WHY GVP: This Sally’s conditioning balm is a decent knock-off of the more expensiveMatrix Biolage Conditioning Balm.  Many naturals who use it rave about the penetrating moisture, resulting softness, and its ability to help reduce tangles.  Some also comment on it transforming damaged hair.  Another benefit is that you only have to leave in on for 1-3 minutes.

WHAT’S IN IT: The topmost ingredients consist of water, a humectant (propylene glycol), fatty alcohols (myristyl and cetearyl), and a quat (cetrimonium chloride), which helps to smoothen the hair shaft.  It also contains a few parabens for those who want to be aware.

3. Herbal Essences Hello Hydration

WHY HERBAL ESSENCES: This is another popular moisturizing conditioner that gets a lot of buzz in the natural hair community.  It rightfully earns its name “hydration” and gets the job done at a low price.  It is also one of the more accessible products on this list. You can find it in most grocery stores.

WHAT’S IN IT: The main ingredients are water, fatty alcohols (stearyl and cetyl), a quat (behentrimonium chloride) for smoother hair, and a cone for additional smoothness.  The conditioner also contains silk extract and coconut extract amongst other ingredients.

4. Shea Moisture Restorative Conditioner

WHY SHEA MOISTURE: Naturals who love this conditioner rave about the intense moisture it provides despite the lack of slip.  Many of those who love it also praise its mostly natural ingredients and use it as a leave-in as well.

WHAT’S IN IT:  The main ingredients are water, shea butter, argan oil, coconut oil, a quat (behentrimonium chloride), and an essential oil blend.  A few other ingredients include vegetable glycerin, panthenol, and avocado oil.

5. Elucence Moisture Balancing Conditioner

WHY ELUCENCE: Elucence is a conditioner that you either love or you hate.  Those who love it use it as a moisturizing co-wash or rinse-out conditioner.  It can also be used as a moisturizing leave-in, which essentially makes it a 2-in-1 product.  A little also goes a long way, and users also like that it has a faint smell unlike many other conditioners.

WHAT’S IN IT: This conditioner contains several extracts (ginseng root, irish moss, and more), water, and a quat (stearalkonium chloride) among its top ingredients.  It also contains panthenol, biotin, and squalane (olive oil lipid) amongst other ingredients.

Ladies, have you tried any of these conditioners? 

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Fixing Split Ends Without Cutting

By Renae Gylbert

A big pet peeve many naturals have about their hair is split ends. In fact, it’s a nuisance of most women trying to repair their hair.

In a nut shell, split ends occur when the hair loses a lot of moisture and protein, thus causing the bond that makes a hair shaft what it is split.  This split also makes your hair weaker and more susceptible to breakage.

Unfortunately, women with kinky and curly suffer from dryness far more often than straight textured hair so heat damage and styling damage resulting in split ends is nothing new

Personally, I hate split ends because I know have to get my hair cut and then kiss all my lovely growth bye bye!

The fastest way to repair split ends is it simply cut your hair. I know that’s not what most naturals want to hear but it’s true! Removing the split ends means the hair can no longer split and potentially cause damage.

The good news is that it’s usually no more than a couple of inches but some naturals have a head full of damage and making a “big chop” decision is not something that comes easy for them.

However, there could be a means to the madness WITHOUT chopping off your splits but it will require some work and dedication from you.

And frankly, the steps are nothing new; surely, you’ve heard or read about them before on your natural hair journey.

So, here are some ways to fix split ends without the trimming:

• Get more protein in your diet. When the hair shaft loses a lot of protein, it can split. Fix and prevent this by taking more protein pills or including more protein your diet. This means eating more lean meats and fish.

• Deep condition more often. With the right deep conditioning regimen, you can slowly repair damaged ends. You don’t have to wash your hair every week, but try to deep condition it at least once a week if your are contending with split ends.

• Do more hot oil treatments. Hot oil treatments are a great way to maintain moisture in your hair for several days. Some great repair oils for a hot treatment include coconut oil, olive oil and jojoba oil. Massage the oils onto your scalp and all the way down to the shaft directly on the damaged ends.

• Find products specifically designed for split ends. It will say so on the bottle or container. Or it might use words like “repair” or “rejuvenate”  or “ strengthen” to describe its split end sealing purpose. Shea Moisture’s Jamaican Black Castor Oil Strengthen Grow Restore Leave-In Conditioner would be an example of a split end repair product.

If you do not have split ends but want to avoid getting them, watch this brief video from this lovely natural who gives honest tips on prevent split ends.

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3 Easy-To-Make Homemade Deep Conditioners for Natural Hair

By Chinwe of Hair and Health

For some of us, going natural did not stop with our hair.  It continued with a move towards mixing our own “natural” products.  While numerous recipes exist on the internet, few are actually both simple AND effective in meeting the needs of our natural hair.  If you are new to making your own products or are a current mixtress searching for an easy-to-make recipe that actually works, you can start with these homemade conditioners, which are my three favorites:

1. For Manageability – Bananas, olive oil, glycerin, and honey

This homemade conditioner improves the manageability of my hair for post-rinse styling. The secret is in the banana, which has a way of minimizing shrinkage and softening the hair when mixed with the other ingredients.  Meanwhile, glycerin andhoney, which are both humectants, and olive oil, which is known to penetrate the hair, all contribute moisturizing benefits.  Do not be alarmed if you notice a loosening of your coils or curls with this conditioner; the effect is temporary until your next wash day. This recipe is ideal for naturals who want to achieve easier blow-outs or better stretched styles.

Ingredients:
1 large overripe banana (sliced) OR 7 oz banana baby food
4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
2 tbsp pure vegetable glycerin
2 tbsp pure honey

Instructions:
Place the sliced banana, extra virgin olive oil, glycerin, and honey all in a blender. Blend the ingredients thoroughly making sure no lumps or banana bits remain. (Depending on your blender quality, you may or may not have to then sieve the mixture.  Another option is to use banana baby food, though the conditioner may not be as effective.) Apply to hair and let sit for 30-45 minutes under a shower cap. Detangle, rinse thoroughly, and style as usual.

2. For Detangling – Avocados, olive oil, shea butter, and apple cider vinegar

This homemade conditioner is lubricating, thick, and heavy, all of which give my kinks slip, moisture, and hang for detangling. The avocado’s meatiness and fatty acid content contribute to the effectiveness of this mixture.  Additionally, the fatty acids in the olive oil combined with the emollient properties of shea butter add even more lubrication and moisturizing benefits.  Lastly, the acidic pH of the apple cider vinegarhelps to flatten the cuticles for easier detangling.  This conditioner is ideal for those with thick, dense hair and major shrinkage.

Ingredients:
1 overripe avocado (sliced)
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
1/2 cup unrefined shea butter
2-3 tablespoons of apple cider vinegar

Instructions:
Place the sliced avocado, unrefined shea butter, extra virgin olive oil (EVOO), andapple cider vinegar (ACV) into a blender. (There is no need to melt the shea butterahead of time.)  Blend all the ingredients thoroughly and add more EVOO, if necessary, until the mixture reaches your desired consistency. When done, apply to the hair and let sit for 30-45 minutes under a shower cap. Detangle, rinse thoroughly, and style as usual.

3. For Strengthening – Coconut oil and honey

This conditioner is ideal for naturals whose hair dislikes protein conditioners but needs a bit of strengthening.  The key is the coconut oil, which binds to the hair thus reducing keratin loss. Honey, a humectant, is also added to the mix to impart moisture retention.  I get the best of both worlds – moisture and strength – with this conditioner.  I personally use two servings of the recipe because my hair is really thick, dense, and naturally dry.

Ingredients:
4 tbs of extra virgin coconut oil
2 tbs of pure honey
(depending on hair density or length, you may use two servings of this recipe)

Instructions:
Place the coconut oil and honey in a small cup and place the cup in a large bowl of hot water.  Allow the cup to sit in the water for a few minutes until the mixture is warm.  Pour the mixture onto freshly washed but towel blotted hair.  Put on a shower cap, and wrap with a towel to prevent mixture from dripping onto face. Let it sit for 20 minutes, then rinse out 80-90% of the conditioner, and style as usual.

Do you have any homemade conditioner recipes? Share below!

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5 Ways that Weekly Deep Conditioning Can Boost Length Retention

by Kelsey (pictured above) of Lifewithcoco2

As someone who gets a lot of questions pertaining to how to keep hair healthy and grow it long, I was surprised to discover how many ladies and gents didn’t know or still don’t know the importance of deep conditioning their hair on a weekly basis. It is vital in order to have the healthiest hair possible. Here are five important reasons for deep conditioning your hair weekly:

1. Nourishment for your hair
Deep conditioning infuses your hair with the nutrients it needs in order to stay healthy. Your hair requires nourishment just like any other part of your body.

2. Prevention of dryness and breakage
Deep conditioning helps to improve hair’s elasticity, which means it is more flexible and can stretch more before it breaks. Hair that does not get deep conditioned frequently is more prone to dryness and breakage.

3. Length Retention
I often hear the saying ‘Oh my hair won’t grow,’ and then I immediately ask, “How often are you deep conditioning your hair,” and they’ll usually say, “every two weeks or once a month.” The truth is, your hair is always growing. Long hair is all about length retention. Deep conditioning plays a huge role in length retention because length retention goes hand in hand with breakage. The less breakage, the more hair you are able to keep!

4. Keeps hair soft smooth and shiny
Deep Conditioning is beneficial to keeping hair soft, smooth, manageable and shiny. Those are all signs of a healthy head of hair!

5. Hair Repair
If you are currently struggling with damaged hair, whether it be from heat styling, color, or just not knowing where to start with your hair regimen, make sure that deep conditioning at least once a week is apart of it. It will restore and repair your hair and you will be on your way to gorgeous healthy hair!

In the video below, I share some of my favorite products that I use to keep my hair healthy along with my favorite deep conditioners!

http://youtu.be/7FULFljeGiE

Do you deep condition weekly? If not, how often are you currently deep conditioning and do you think a weekly deep conditioning routine could fit into your regimen?

About Kelsey: I’m Kelsey Janae aka Lifewithcoco2, I love all things natural hair. I seek to inspire and educate using my knowledge of all things hair, health, and beauty. My goal is to encourage women and men to always be the best version of themselves.

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25 Popular Oils, Butters and Natural Ingredients and How To Use Them on Natural Hair

By Chinwe of Hair and Health

When it comes to hair care, it is vital to know how certain ingredients work on our strands. Having this knowledge reduces the “trial and error” involved in both building and adjusting a hair care regimen.

Below is a quick guide for the more popular, mainly natural ingredients involved in do-it-yourself (DIY) hair care. Do keep in mind that what works for most individuals may (or may not) work for you.

1. When you want to take advantage of the humidity:
Glycerin, honey, aloe vera juice
Why: Humectants (moisture retention).
How to use: Add to a moisturizer or a leave-in.

2. When you want an oil-based sealant:
Soybean oil, grapeseed oil, castor oil, avocado oil, sweet almond oil
Why: These oils can reduce moisture loss.
How to use: Use separately or add some to your moisturizer.

3. When you want a light sealant:
Jojoba oil, grapeseed oil
Why: These oils are light compared to other oils.
How to use: Use separately or add some to your moisturizer.

4. When you want a heavy sealant:
Olive oil, shea butter (melted) mixed with any oil
Why: Olive oil is one of the heavier oils. Many butters (such as shea) contain fatty acids like oils but are heavier than oils.
How to use: Use separately or add some to your moisturizer.

5. When your scalp is itchy:
Tea tree essential oil, aloe vera juice
Why: Some find either of these substances to be soothing to the skin.
How to use: (Tea tree) Use a few drops with water or a carrier oil. (Aloe vera) Use straight or mix with water. NOTE: If you are pregnant or have a health condition, please consult your doctor before using essential oils.

6. When your scalp is dry:
Jojoba oil, aloe vera juice, grapeseed oil
Why: Jojoba oil is light and said to be very similar to our sebum. Aloe vera juice is light, moisturizing, and soothing to the skin.  Grapeseed oil contains a high amount of linoleic acid, which has been shown to protect against moisture loss (British Journal of Derm. 1976 Sept;95(3):255–64).
How to use: (Jojoba, grapeseed) Massage a few drops into the scalp. (Aloe vera) Use straight or mix with water.

7. When you want a moisturizing or softening oil:
Grapeseed oil, safflower oil, castor oil, argan oil
Why: These oils tend to leave the hair feeling soft and moist.
How to use: Use separately on damp hair or add some to your moisturizer.

8. When you want a moisturizing or softening non-oil:
Glycerin, aloe vera gel/juice, rosewater, honey, water
Why: Glycerin and honey are humectants (good for moisture retention). Aloe vera gel/juice and rosewater are moisturizing. Water is the best natural form of hydration.
How to use: Use separately, add to your moisturizer, or mix one (or more) ingredients to create a moisturizing spritz. Glycerin and honey work best when applied to damp hair or mixed with water.  NOTE: Adding water, aloe vera juice, or rosewater to a whipped butter can create an environment for bacterial and/or fungal growth.

9. When you want shine or sheen:
Castor oil, coconut oil, avocado oil, apple cider vinegar
Why: Castor oil has been shown to impart sheen (J Cosmet Sci. 2003 Jul-Aug;54(4):335-51). Coconut oil, avocado oil, and apple cider vinegar are ones that many naturals swear by.
How to use: (Castor, coconut, avocado) Use separately or add on top of your moisturizer. (Apple cider vinegar) Use as a post-wash rinse with cold water for 5 minutes.

10. When your shampoo is drying:
Coconut oil, olive oil, argan oil
Why: These oils are moisturizing and lubricating.
How to use: Pre-poo with any of the above oils or add to shampoo.

11. When your shampoo is not cleansing enough:
Baking soda
Why: Easily lifts oils and dirt.
How to use: Mix a little with your shampoo. (Be sure to follow up with an apple cider vinegar rinse.)

12. When you want more slip in your conditioner:
Shea butter (melted), coconut oil, olive oil, jojoba oil
Why: Lubricating.
How to use: Add some to your conditioner.

13. When you want a more moisturizing conditioner:
Glycerin, honey, shea butter (melted), argan oil
Why: (glycerin, honey) moisture retention; (shea butter) emollient.
How to use: Add some to your conditioner.

14. When you want a more strengthening conditioner:
Coconut oil, gelatin, other hydrolyzed protein (e.g. keratin, collagen)
Why: Coconut oil has been shown to penetrate the hair and reduce keratin loss (J Cosmet Sci. 2003 Mar-Apr;54(2):175-92). Hydrolyzed protein, including gelatin, provides reinforcement by temporarily patching the cuticle layer.  For maximum strengthening, go for conditioners containing hydrolyzed protein.
How to use: (Coconut oil) Best used as a pre-poo to minimize breakage, but may also use post-wash. (Gelatin) Mix with an avocado, yogurt, and/or oils to create a strengthening conditioner. (Other hydrolyzed protein) Find a commercial conditioner with this ingredient.

15. When you want more hold and definition:
Shea butter, mango butter, beeswax, flaxseed gel
How to use: Add some to your moisturizer or use separately.

16. When you want to add fragrance to your mixture:
Lavender essential oil, jasmine essential oil, rose essential oil, orange essential oil
Why: These oils are some of the better options for specifically adding fragrance.  Lavender, jasmine, and rose have floral scents while orange has a citrusy scent.
How to use: Add some to your moisturizer or spritz.

17. When you want a lighter, less oil-based whipped butter (e.g., warm weather):
Aloe vera gel, jojoba oil
Why: moisturizing, but light
How to use: Mix a 1:1 shea butter and aloe vera gel mixture (or a variation of this recipe).

18. When you want a heavier, more oil-based whipped butter (e.g., cold weather):
Olive oil, coconut oil, grapeseed oil, avocado oil, castor oil
Why: moisturizing and sealing
How to use: Mix a 1:1 or 2:1 shea butter and oil(s) mixture.

Ladies, what natural ingredients do you look for in hair care products?

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